If there’s a time when the words De Luxe were properly used this was definitely one of them.
The Polerouter was launched in 1954 and the designed was commissioned to a young Gerald Genta that later would become the most famous watch designer of all times. The Swiss-born designer is responsible for some of the industry’s most iconic and long-lasting designs–among them the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and the IWC Ingenieur SL.
Polarouters (as well as some early Polerouters) were fitted with the same Cal 138 SS bumper movements (introduced in 1948) found in earlier SAS watches. In 1955, Universal Genève equipped the Polerouter with their new 215 micro-rotor movement, one of the first of its kind (the other being Hamilton/Buren’s “planetary” rotor found in their Thin-O-Matic range). Though the revolutionary 215 was first introduced in 1955, Universal Genève was not able to patent the movement until 1958 due to a legal dispute with Buren. As a result, early 215s were signed “Patented Rights Pending” underneath the rotor. As is the particular case with this example.
Even the “normal” stainless steel versions are already highly sought after for its simple and timeless design.
The De Luxe version seen here in 18K rose gold is very rare and a true anthem to elegant watches. This has to be one of the most clean designs ever made.
Unfortunally nowadays we see the expression New Old Stock and Mint being thrown around for every other watch that comes for sale. We’ll just let our pictures speak for themselves and you’ll be the judge.
We just dare you to find a better condition Polerouter De Luxe......
Some technical specifications.
Case - 36mm twisted lugs - Gerald Genta design, solid 18K rose gold, original signed crown, signed caseback
Movement - Cal. 215 UG Micro rotor “Patented Rights Pending”
Dial - Solid rose gold centre with rose gold reflective chapter ring, gilt writing and applied logo.